Yo, let’s have a real talk. Ever felt a phantom beat drop while taking a corner a little too fast? Heard a faint Eurobeat synth line carried on the wind? If you’ve ever found your heart racing to the rhythm of “Gas Gas Gas” while dreaming of tofu deliveries, then you know what’s up. We’re talking about the legendary, the iconic, the absolute cultural phenomenon that is Initial D. This isn’t just some anime, fam. It’s a whole mood. It’s the story of Takumi Fujiwara, an unassuming tofu delivery boy who, in his dad’s humble Toyota Sprinter Trueno AE86, accidentally becomes the undisputed king of the mountain passes. His battles against the slickest drivers in the Kanto region, from the stoic Takahashi brothers of the Akagi RedSuns to the aggressive NightKids of Myogi, are the stuff of legends. It’s a story about skill over specs, about the connection between driver and machine, and about the raw, untamed spirit of Japan’s mountain roads, the touge.
For fans, these aren’t just fictional settings. They are real places, etched into the asphalt of Gunma Prefecture and beyond. Making a pilgrimage here isn’t just about ticking off locations from a list. It’s about chasing a feeling. It’s about rolling down your window and smelling the pine-scented mountain air, feeling the g-force in a tight hairpin, and seeing the same guardrails that Takumi and his rivals flew past. It’s a journey to the heartland of JDM culture, where the ghosts of tire screeches and roaring engines still echo in the quiet twilight. This is a guide for the dreamers, the drivers, the ones who get it. We’re diving deep into the real-life Akina, Akagi, and Myogi, and even venturing further to the legendary passes of Usui and Irohazaka. So buckle up, get your Eurobeat playlist ready, and let’s go chase some ghosts on the touge. It’s about to get seriously real.
This pilgrimage through the heartland of JDM culture is the perfect way to experience the raw spirit of the touge, a feeling that extends to other facets of the scene like the wild energy of a Liberty Walk car meet.
The Holy Land: Gunma Prefecture’s Touge Trinity
Before you even consider hitting the road, you need to grasp the significance of Gunma. This isn’t just some random place on the map; it’s the ultimate destination for Initial D fans. Situated northwest of Tokyo, this landlocked prefecture is renowned for its onsen (hot springs), mountains, and agricultural heritage. It’s this very geography that sets the perfect stage for the touge battles. The landscape is dominated by three famous mountains—Haruna, Akagi, and Myogi—creating a jagged, imposing skyline. These aren’t merely hills; they are ancient volcanoes, shaped over millennia by nature into a playground of winding roads. For most of the year, Gunma is a tranquil, rural retreat from the neon frenzy of the big cities. You’ll find sleepy towns, expansive cabbage fields, and locals who have likely witnessed countless car enthusiasts making the same pilgrimage as you. Yet for those in the know, this quiet prefecture harbors a powerful energy. It’s where the boundary between fiction and reality fades, where you can almost glimpse the headlights of an AE86 in your rearview mirror. Getting here is part of the journey. Renting a car is essential to fully unlock this experience. The drive from Tokyo takes a couple of hours, and as the skyscrapers give way to rolling hills and then towering mountain peaks, you’ll feel the anticipation rising. This is it. You’re stepping into the arena.
Mount Haruna – The Legendary Home of Akina SpeedStars
In the world of Initial D, it goes by a single name: Akina. In reality, it’s Mount Haruna, the undisputed epicenter of your pilgrimage. This is where everything began. This is Takumi’s home turf, a road he mastered not through racing, but through years of early morning tofu deliveries, perfecting his lines with a cup of water perched on the console. From the moment you start the climb, the atmosphere is electric—a blend of reverence and pure, unfiltered excitement. You’re not merely driving a road; you’re driving through the anime’s opening credits. It’s where the Akina SpeedStars defended their honor and where countless legendary battles unfolded. Haruna is more than just a backdrop; it’s a character in its own right, its personality shifting dramatically from day to night.
The Vibe Check: More Than Just a Road
By day, Mount Haruna is genuinely a stunning tourist destination. The road leading to the summit, known as the Haruna Niban Route, offers a scenic drive enjoyed by families, cyclists, and nature lovers alike. The air is crisp, the forests dense and vibrant, and the views of the Kanto Plain below are breathtaking. At the top, you’ll discover the tranquil Lake Haruna, nestled within the mountain’s caldera. It’s postcard-perfect Japan. You can rent swan boats, enjoy soft-serve ice cream, and simply soak in the peaceful surroundings. It’s almost unbelievable that such a serene place is the stage for intense drama. But as the sun sets and tourists head home, a new energy emerges. Shadows lengthen, the road empties, and the silence is interrupted only by the wind rustling through the trees. This is when the atmosphere changes—you can picture local teams gathering at lookout points, cigarettes glowing in the dark, the low rumble of tuned engines awaiting challengers. It’s an electrifying sensation, even if you’re the only car on the road. The dual nature of Haruna is what makes it so exceptional—a fusion of natural beauty and fictional chaos.
Driving the Five Consecutive Hairpins: A Play-by-Play
Now, let’s get to the heart of it. The most iconic part of Akina is undoubtedly the five consecutive hairpins on the downhill section. This is the stretch that immortalized the AE86. Driving it yourself is surreal. Let me be clear: you are not Takumi Fujiwara. Speed limits exist for a reason, and these are public roads with two-way traffic. Always prioritize safety. Yet, even at a sensible pace, you can appreciate the sheer technical brilliance of this road. The descent begins gently, lulling you with sweeping curves, before tightening sharply. The first hairpin appears abruptly: a sharp right turn demanding your full focus. You brake, steer in, and accelerate out, feeling your car’s weight shift. Next comes the second, a left-hander, followed by more sequential turns in rapid succession—it’s a relentless, rhythmic dance. The road is narrower than the anime suggests, and the drop-offs are genuinely steep. As you navigate these bends, you’ll notice the notorious gutters—concrete drainage ditches lining the inside of each corner. This is where Takumi executed his legendary gutter run, using the ditch to hook his inner tires and maintain speed through the turn. Seeing it in person reveals just how incredible that stunt truly is—a perfect blend of reality and fantasy. The final hairpin launches you onto a longer straight, and as you catch your breath, a profound sense of achievement will wash over you. You’ve just driven through automotive folklore.
The Real-Life Spots: Beyond the Tarmac
Your Haruna adventure wouldn’t be complete without visiting key spots around the course. At the summit, before the lake, you’ll find a long straight where many races in the series began. A large parking area here serves as the real-world equivalent of the gallery spot where Iketani, Kenji, and Itsuki watched races unfold. Park your car, step out, and take it all in. On a clear day, the view stretching across the Gunma landscape is absolutely stunning—perfect for a hero shot of your rental car framed by a legendary backdrop. A short drive away takes you to Lake Haruna’s shores, a peaceful place to unwind. The iconic Mount Harunafuji, a perfectly conical secondary peak, provides a breathtaking backdrop to the water. This is where you can take a break from driving-focused mode and just enjoy being a tourist. Grab coffee at one of the lakeside cafés, or, if you’re feeling adventurous, take the ropeway up Harunafuji for even more panoramic views. For a cultural touch, don’t miss Haruna Shrine, located partway down the mountain on a different route. This ancient Shinto shrine is one of the region’s most spiritually significant sites. The approach involves a long, atmospheric walk lined with towering cedar trees and moss-covered stone lanterns. The main shrine buildings, built into a cliffside, exemplify a harmonious blend of architecture and nature. It’s a humbling, peaceful experience offering a striking contrast to the adrenaline-fueled touge.
Practical Details for Your Haruna Run
Getting to Mount Haruna is fairly straightforward, but having a car is essential. From Tokyo, take the Kan-Etsu Expressway toward Takasaki, then drive about an hour up the mountain roads. The best time to visit depends on your preference. Spring and summer offer lush greenery and mild weather. Autumn, with its brilliant red, orange, and yellow foliage, is spectacular but also peak season, so expect more traffic. Winter, while picturesque with snow, brings the risk of road closures—always check conditions beforehand. When driving, take it slow and cautious. Though the roads are well maintained, they’re still mountain roads. Watch out for cyclists, hikers, and local traffic. There are plenty of spots to pull over for photos, so don’t rush. Use designated parking lots at the summit or near the shrine. And remember to support the local economy—the vending machines, cafés, and souvenir shops all help maintain this beautiful area for everyone to enjoy.
Mount Akagi – The Domain of the RedSuns
If Haruna is the hero’s home turf, Mount Akagi belongs to the cool, calculated rivals. This is the home course of the legendary Akagi RedSuns, led by the Takahashi brothers, Ryosuke and Keisuke. Akagi feels different from Haruna—larger, wider, and faster. The mountain itself is a vast, sprawling volcano, and the roads that wind around it mirror that scale. The atmosphere here emphasizes high-speed strategy and raw power rather than tight, technical precision. This is where the FD3S and FC3S RX-7s dominated. Approaching Akagi, usually from Maebashi city, feels more dramatic. The mountain looms larger in your windshield, and the road swiftly changes from suburban streets into a full-fledged touge. There’s a sense of professionalism here, a feeling that this course is made for serious drivers.
The RedSuns’ Domain: A Different Challenge
The contrast with Haruna is clear. Mount Akagi’s main route is a broader, two-lane road with a much smoother surface. The corners are long, sweeping arcs rather than tight, claustrophobic hairpins. You can carry higher speeds through the turns, and the straights between them are longer, inviting you to open the throttle. It’s clear why this was the ideal training ground for the Takahashi brothers. The course requires a different set of skills—not only quick reflexes but a mastery of high-speed car control, weight transfer, and perfect racing lines through fast bends. The ambiance feels more serious, more intense. The forest is thicker, the road feels more isolated, and there are fewer tourist distractions along the way up. It’s just you, the car, and a ribbon of asphalt climbing endlessly toward the sky. This course rewards precision and punishes mistakes; one wrong move at these speeds shows you the respect this mountain demands.
Mastering Akagi’s Sweeping Curves
Driving Akagi is a lesson in flow and rhythm. The uphill and downhill stretches offer distinct experiences. The uphill climb is relentless, testing your car’s engine. Downhill is where the real excitement begins. Descending from the summit caldera, the road unfolds into a series of magnificent S-curves. You fall into a rhythm: braking, turning in, hitting the apex, accelerating out, and immediately preparing for the next corner. It’s incredibly satisfying. Several famous sections from the anime are easy to spot. The sequence of consecutive medium-speed corners where Keisuke famously battled Takumi is instantly recognizable. You’ll also find lookout points and small parking areas that served as RedSuns’ meeting spots. Pulling over at one of these at dusk, with Maebashi’s lights twinkling far below, you can almost hear Ryosuke Takahashi giving a technical briefing, his white FC gleaming under the moonlight. It’s a moving moment for any fan of the series.
Akagi’s Hidden Wonders: More Than Just Asphalt
Like Haruna, Akagi offers more than just roads. The summit is a large caldera featuring several beautiful natural sights. The main attraction is Lake Onuma, a tranquil body of water surrounded by lush forest. A picturesque red bridge leads to a small island where you’ll find Akagi Shrine. This shrine has a serene, ancient atmosphere—an ideal spot for quiet reflection after an adrenaline-filled drive. You can rent boats on the lake or simply stroll around the perimeter to enjoy the fresh mountain air. In winter, the lake freezes over and becomes popular for ice fishing. Beyond the lake, numerous hiking trails crisscross the mountain. For families or those wanting to stretch their legs, the trails provide a chance to experience Akagi’s rich natural environment up close. You can hike to various peaks within the caldera for breathtaking 360-degree views. These legendary mountains are also vital natural habitats, and it’s a privilege to visit them. The area is also known for beautiful flowers, with vibrant azaleas blooming in early summer.
Your Akagi Strategy
The easiest access to Mount Akagi is from Maebashi, the capital of Gunma Prefecture. The roads are well marked, making it easy to find your way up. The roads are generally open year-round but can close due to heavy snow in winter, so always check ahead. Photography on Akagi is highly rewarding. The wide, sweeping corners are perfect for classic touge shots. Try a low angle to highlight both the curve of the road and the mountain’s scale. The lookout points offer stunning panoramic views, especially during the golden hour just before sunset. For food, several small restaurants and cafes around Lake Onuma at the summit serve simple but delicious Japanese dishes like soba, udon, and curry. It’s a perfect place to refuel before descending the mountain. Remember, Akagi is popular with local car and motorcycle enthusiasts, especially on weekends. Be courteous, share the road, and enjoy the shared passion for driving.
Mount Myogi – The Tricky Home of the NightKids
After the flowing speed of Akagi and the technical hairpins of Haruna, Mount Myogi offers an entirely different kind of challenge. This is the domain of the NightKids, the aggressive and proud team led by Takeshi Nakazato and his black R32 GT-R. The mountain perfectly embodies their character: wild, jagged, and unpredictable. Unlike the others, Mount Myogi isn’t a single volcanic cone but a collection of dramatic, weathered rock formations that jut into the sky like something from a traditional Japanese painting. The road carving through this landscape is just as dramatic—narrow, tight, and demanding your full, undivided attention. The vibe here is raw and intimidating; it’s no leisurely scenic drive but more like navigating a natural obstacle course.
An Unorthodox Course: Myogi’s Wild Side
Driving Myogi tests your nerve. The road twists and turns relentlessly, offering very few straight sections to relax. Blind corners abound, with sheer rock faces on one side and steep drops on the other. It’s easy to see why the NightKids, who prized raw grip and aggressive driving, call this home. This course favors cars with excellent handling and drivers with guts. You can feel the tension in the air as jagged peaks loom overhead, as if you’re in a vast rocky amphitheater. The scenery is so captivating that you must consciously force yourself to focus solely on the road ahead. This is Myogi’s core challenge: balancing admiration for the stunning, almost chaotic beauty of the landscape with respect for the very real dangers of the road. It perfectly captures the spirit of the NightKids—rough around the edges, yet undeniably impressive.
Taming the Bends: A Technical Drive
From a driving standpoint, Myogi is all about rhythm shifts. One moment you’re negotiating a tight second-gear corner, and the next the road opens up for a brief burst of acceleration before plunging into another complex series of turns. It’s an engaging and mentally demanding drive. While you won’t be trying any guardrail-tapping antics like Nakazato, you will pass several sections of Armco barriers that look strangely familiar. The road surface here can be rougher than on Haruna or Akagi, adding to the difficulty. The key is smooth, deliberate inputs—any sudden movements can unsettle the car on these narrow, uneven roads. The drive leaves you exhilarated and perhaps a bit mentally drained, but with a deep respect for those who can master this unforgiving course. The sense of achievement after a clean run down Myogi is immense.
More Than a Mountain Pass: Rocks and Reverence
Myogi’s appeal goes well beyond its challenging roads. It’s one of the premier hiking and rock-climbing spots in the Kanto region, with its bizarre rock formations serving as a natural playground for outdoor enthusiasts. Trails range from gentle strolls to serious, chain-assisted scrambles that aren’t for the faint-hearted. With proper gear and a head for heights, tackling these trails rewards you with views that are simply breathtaking. Even if you’re not a serious hiker, a visit to Myogi Shrine is essential. The main shrine sits at the mountain’s base, but the real allure lies at the inner shrine tucked dramatically high among the crags. The steep walk up through forest and past giant rock formations is worth the effort. The shrine itself is a stunning example of traditional Japanese architecture set in a powerful natural backdrop. The panoramic lookout points are major highlights as well. The Nakanotake Shrine area boasts a large parking lot and incredible views of the rock formations, along with a giant gold statue of Daikokuten, one of the seven lucky gods—a delightfully quirky sight amid the rugged landscape.
Myogi Mission Briefing
Situated west of Takasaki, Myogi is easily accessible by car and well-signposted due to its popularity with hikers. A word of caution: if you plan to hike, especially on the more advanced trails, come prepared. Wear sturdy hiking boots, bring plenty of water, and keep an eye on the weather, as the rocks can become slippery when wet and some paths are genuinely dangerous. As for driving, the usual precautions apply: take it slow, be mindful of oncoming traffic at blind corners, and watch for hikers or wildlife on the road. The roads are particularly narrow, so giving other vehicles plenty of space is crucial. Several small shops and restaurants near the main shrine make for a good spot to rest and grab food. While Myogi may be the most challenging of the Gunma trinity, its raw, unique beauty makes it an unforgettable part of any Initial D pilgrimage.
Venturing Beyond Gunma: The Extended Pilgrimage
For the truly devoted, the pilgrimage need not end in Gunma. The world of Initial D stretches to other legendary passes in the Kanto region, each boasting its own unique character and story. Traveling to these spots transforms your trip from a simple weekend outing into an epic quest. By following Takumi’s Project D journey, you test your determination while uncovering even more of Japan’s remarkable driving roads and breathtaking scenery. The next two destinations, Usui and Irohazaka, are among the most famous and demanding courses in the entire series, and visiting them is a rite of passage for the hardcore fan.
Usui Pass – C121 and the Impact Blue Legacy
Crossing from Gunma into Nagano Prefecture, you’ll arrive at Usui Pass. This touge exudes a unique kind of energy—not about sheer power or high-speed maneuvers, but about precision, elegance, and an intimate familiarity with the road. It’s the home turf of Mako and Sayuki, the all-female duo known as Impact Blue, and their iconic blue Nissan SilEighty. Usui Pass is their stage, where their synchronized high-speed runs have become legendary. The pass is best known for one particular corner: the incredibly tight and almost impossible C121. This single bend defines the entire course’s character—it demands absolute flawless execution.
The Empress’s Playground
Usui Pass constantly applies pressure. The road is narrow, twisting, and often flanked by rock walls or dense forest, creating a tunnel-like sensation that amplifies the sense of speed. It’s a relentless sequence of lefts and rights that offers no respite. It’s a pure driver’s road, rewarding finesse and a delicate touch. As you weave through its curves, it’s easy to picture Mako’s SilEighty gliding effortlessly, perfectly balanced, with Sayuki giving guidance from the passenger seat. The C121 corner, when you finally reach it, is far more daunting in person than in the anime. It’s an absurdly sharp right-hand bend that appears to fold back on itself. Taking it any faster than a crawl demands a very precise line and a ton of trust. It is the ultimate challenge of a driver’s skill to control their car at the limit. Conquering C121 is a defining experience of the Usui pilgrimage.
The Old vs. The New
It’s important to know that Usui Pass has two roads. There is the New Usui Bypass (Route 18), a modern, broad road with gentle bends and tunnels that most traffic takes. Then there is the Old Usui Pass (Kyudo), the original, historic route and the genuine Initial D course. Make sure you’re on the old road. It runs parallel to the new one but offers a completely different experience. A standout sight along the old pass is Meganebashi, or “Spectacles Bridge.” This beautiful four-arch brick bridge was once part of an old railway line and is now a popular tourist attraction. You can park nearby and stroll across the top, which provides stunning views of the surrounding forest. It’s a wonderful example of Meiji-era industrial heritage and a perfect spot to pause, stretch your legs, and capture some amazing photos. The contrast between the elegant man-made arches and the wild, natural touge is striking.
Karuizawa Connection
Usui Pass is the gateway between Gunma and Karuizawa, one of Japan’s most renowned and sophisticated mountain resorts. After conquering the pass, you can descend into Karuizawa for a completely different atmosphere. It’s a place filled with chic boutiques, artisan bakeries, cozy cafés, and luxury hotels. It’s the ideal spot to reward yourself after several days of intense touge driving. You can savor a gourmet meal, shop at the expansive outlet mall, or rent bikes to explore the town’s picturesque tree-lined streets. This connection makes a trip to Usui Pass a fantastic two-for-one experience: the raw and authentic touge challenge followed by a relaxing, upscale resort town retreat.
Usui Intel
To reach the old pass, look for signs indicating “Kyudo Route 18” coming from either Gunma or Nagano. The road is well-maintained but narrow, so exercise extra caution. There’s a dedicated parking area for Meganebashi, making it a convenient and worthwhile stop. Pairing your Usui drive with an afternoon or overnight stay in Karuizawa is highly recommended. It adds depth to your trip and provides a comfortable base for further exploration of the region.
Irohazaka Winding Road – The Ultimate Skill Test
Prepare yourself for the ultimate challenge. Irohazaka, situated in Tochigi Prefecture near the renowned town of Nikko, is more than just a road—it’s a spectacle. This may well be the most unique and technically challenging public roadway in all of Japan. Its claim to fame is legendary: the road features 48 hairpin turns, each identified by a letter from the ancient Japanese alphabet (the I-Ro-Ha). It’s so intense that it actually consists of two separate one-way roads: one ascending (the Second Irohazaka) and one descending (the First Irohazaka). In the Initial D universe, this is the home course of the Emperor team and their fleet of Mitsubishi Lancer Evolutions, led by the fiercely competitive Kyoichi Sudo. It’s here that Takumi was driven to evolve, pushing his AE86 and his own skills to their absolute limits.
The Alphabet of Hairpins
Driving Irohazaka is an exhilarating experience. Because it’s one-way, you don’t have to worry about oncoming traffic in your lane, allowing you to focus entirely on the endless sequence of corners. The downhill road, famously the battleground for legendary races, is an unrelenting series of tight, consecutive hairpins. Turn, straighten, brake, turn again. It’s dizzying, disorienting, and tremendously enjoyable. The road’s design is mind-boggling in its complexity. Each corner has its own name, and you can count them down as you descend: “I,” “Ro,” “Ha,” “Ni,”… right to the finish. The constant twisting induces a trance-like state. You can feel the g-forces pulling on you, and you gain a deep respect for the concentration required to drive this road at speed.
The Jump: Myth vs. Reality
Irohazaka is the backdrop for one of the most iconic and outrageous moments in the entire Initial D series: Takumi’s famous hairpin jump. Frustrated by Kyoichi’s blocking tactics, he cuts a corner by launching his AE86 into the air, flying over a dip in the road to take the inside line. When you drive the road yourself, you’ll be looking for that spot—and you will find it. There’s a section downhill with a drainage culvert and a marked dip that matches the anime perfectly. However, seeing it in reality emphasizes that this was pure anime magic. The drop is significant, and attempting such a stunt would instantly wreck any normal car. Nevertheless, it’s an incredibly cool moment to stand there, at that precise spot, and imagine the little AE86 taking flight. It’s a perfect example of how Initial D combined real locations with fantastical, physics-defying action.
Nikko’s Natural and Spiritual Wonders
Irohazaka is more than just a driving route; it’s the main gateway to Okunikko (Inner Nikko), a region of stunning natural beauty and immense cultural significance. At the summit, you’ll discover the breathtaking Lake Chuzenji and the majestic Kegon Falls, one of Japan’s three most famous waterfalls. The sheer force of water plunging 97 meters down a cliff is awe-inspiring. Partway up the ascent, you can pause at the Akechidaira Plateau. From here, take the ropeway to an observation deck that arguably offers the best view in all of Nikko: a sweeping panorama of Kegon Falls and Lake Chuzenji, with Irohazaka winding below. At the mountain’s base lies the town of Nikko itself, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s home to the elaborately decorated Toshogu Shrine, the final resting place of shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, as well as Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji Temple. These sites represent the pinnacle of Japanese shrine and temple architecture, and you could easily spend an entire day exploring their detailed carvings and sacred halls. A visit to Irohazaka truly brings you to the heart of Japan’s cultural and natural heritage.
Conquering Irohazaka
As a major tourist route, Irohazaka can become very busy. The best time to visit is during the autumn foliage season (typically mid-to-late October), when the mountainsides burst into vibrant color. However, this is also when crowds are at their peak. Be prepared for heavy traffic, especially on weekends. If you want a quieter experience, try going early on a weekday morning. The roads are tolled, so keep that in mind. The key thing to remember is that this is a sightseeing route. You’ll be sharing the road with large tour buses and slow-moving tourist traffic. Patience is essential. Enjoy the drive, but also take time to stop and appreciate the world-class scenery surrounding you.
The Unspoken Rules of the Touge: A Pilgrim’s Etiquette
Alright, this part is extremely important. Being a member of the Initial D fan community carries a certain responsibility. When you make this pilgrimage, you’re not merely a tourist; you represent car enthusiasts everywhere. Your behavior on these mountains reflects on all of us. There’s an unspoken code of conduct, a touge etiquette, that you absolutely must adhere to. It’s all about respect: respect for the roads, respect for the locals, and respect for the culture you’ve come to experience.
It’s Not a Race Track, Fam
This is the golden rule. Let’s say it again: these are public roads, not your personal race track. Speed limits exist for very good reasons. These mountains have blind corners, sudden elevation changes, and potential hazards like wildlife, fallen rocks, or cyclists. You share the road with local residents going about their daily lives, delivery trucks, and other tourists who may not be as confident behind the wheel. The goal isn’t to set a new course record. The goal is to safely and responsibly enjoy the feel and flow of these legendary roads. Drive within your limits, stay in your lane, and leave the high-speed fantasies to video games. The last thing you want is to cause an accident and become that reckless tourist who ruins it for everyone.
Respect the Locals, Respect the Vibe
The residents of the towns around these mountains are generally welcoming, but their patience has been worn thin by noisy and inconsiderate drivers. Don’t be one of them. Keep engine noise to a minimum, especially in residential areas or late at night. No excessive revving or loud music. The quiet, peaceful atmosphere of rural Japan is part of its charm. Another important point is litter. It goes without saying—leave these beautiful natural places cleaner than you found them. Take all your trash with you. A simple way to show respect and contribute positively is to support the local economy. Buy a drink from a mountainside vending machine, have lunch at a family-run soba shop, or pick up some local souvenirs. Small gestures go a long way in showing the local community you appreciate their home.
Renting Your Ride: What You Need to Know
To properly make this pilgrimage, you’ll need a car. Renting in Japan is fairly straightforward but requires preparation. The most important thing is your International Driving Permit (IDP). You cannot rent a car without one, so be sure to obtain it from your home country’s automobile association before you leave. When choosing a car, you might be tempted to rent a flashy sports car. While that can be fun, it’s not necessary. In fact, renting a small, humble Japanese car—a Kei car like a Suzuki Alto or a compact like a Toyota Yaris—can offer a more authentic experience. It captures the underdog spirit of Takumi’s AE86. These smaller cars are also easier to handle on the narrow touge roads and more fuel-efficient. Be sure to request an ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) card with your rental for convenient highway toll payments without stopping.
Living the Dream: Where to Eat and Sleep
Your Initial D adventure is not just about driving; it’s about diving deep into the culture of Gunma. This involves tasting the local cuisine and picking the ideal spot to set up your base camp. Thoughtful planning of this part of your trip will make the entire experience even more unforgettable.
Fueling Up: Gunma’s Local Flavors
After a long day of tackling mountain roads, you’ll definitely work up an appetite. Fortunately, Gunma offers some delicious local dishes to recharge your energy. One standout is Mizusawa Udon, known for its firm, chewy noodles typically served cold with a dipping sauce. The area near Mizusawa Temple, close to Mount Haruna, is filled with restaurants specializing in this dish. Another beloved Gunma treat is Yakimanju—steamed buns filled with sweet red bean paste, skewered, brushed with a sweet and savory miso glaze, and grilled to perfection. They make for an excellent snack. On the mountains themselves, especially near the summits of Haruna and Akagi, you’ll find numerous small eateries serving classic Japanese comfort foods such as ramen, curry rice, and katsudon. Don’t underestimate these humble mountain restaurants; their hearty and tasty meals are exactly what you need.
Crashing for the Night: Base Camp Choices
Your accommodation choice can greatly shape your trip. Main cities like Takasaki and Maebashi offer convenience with plenty of hotels, restaurants, and easy highway access. Takasaki, a major Shinkansen (bullet train) station, provides a convenient entry if you’re arriving from Tokyo. For a more traditional and immersive stay, I highly recommend an onsen town. The most renowned in the area is Ikaho Onsen, situated on the slopes of Mount Haruna. This quaint town is famous for its stone steps lined with traditional ryokans (inns), souvenir shops, and shooting galleries. Staying in a ryokan, savoring a multi-course kaiseki dinner, and soaking in mineral-rich hot spring waters is the perfect way to unwind and recharge after a day of driving. It’s a quintessential Japanese experience that blends beautifully with the modern car-culture spirit of your pilgrimage.
Beyond the Tarmac: D’s Garage and Other Fan Spots
While the roads are the main attraction, no Initial D pilgrimage to Gunma would be complete without stopping at the ultimate fan sanctuary. This is where the world of the anime and real-life car culture merge in the most incredible way.
The Holy Grail: Racing Cafe D’z Garage
Situated in Shibukawa, the city that stands in for Akina in real life, is Racing Cafe D’z Garage. This is more than just a cafe; it’s a living museum and a meeting place for fans worldwide. The moment you pull into the parking lot, you know you’ve arrived. It’s often packed with impressive JDM cars owned by fellow enthusiasts. Inside, the cafe is a treasure chest of Initial D memorabilia. But the highlight is the cars. They feature stunning, screen-accurate replicas of the series’ main vehicles, including Takumi’s AE86 Trueno, Keisuke’s FD3S RX-7, and others. Seeing these iconic cars up close is almost a religious experience. You can enjoy a meal—the food is genuinely good—and order their famous “Fujiwara Tofu” pudding, served in an adorable tofu-shop-style container. Exclusive merchandise available here can’t be found anywhere else. The atmosphere is perfect. It’s a place built by fans, for fans, where the shared passion is palpable.
Finding Fujiwara Tofu Shop (The Replica)
For years, fans searched for the original Fujiwara Tofu Shop in Shibukawa. The unfortunate news is that the original building was demolished years ago. The good news is that its spirit endures. The owner of D’z Garage preserved the iconic sign and storefront from the original shop. He has now installed them at his cafe, creating an exact replica of the Fujiwara Tofu Shop on site. You can stand before that legendary sign, with the AE86 parked beside it, creating the perfect photo opportunity. It’s a bittersweet yet wonderful tribute to the series’ origins, ensuring a vital piece of Initial D history remains for future generations of fans to experience.
The Final Stage: A Word of Advice
So, you’ve conquered the holy trinity of Gunma, swayed with Impact Blue on Usui, and navigated the alphabet of hairpins at Irohazaka. You’ve paid homage at D’z Garage and indulged in tofu pudding by the pound. What’s the takeaway? This journey is far more than just a car trip. It’s an immersive dive into a unique subculture and an incredible way to uncover a side of Japan that many tourists overlook. You’ll witness breathtaking landscapes, visit ancient shrines, and experience the genuine warmth of rural Japanese hospitality. You’ll discover that the true spirit of Initial D isn’t merely about winning races or being the fastest. It’s about the journey toward improvement, the bond between friends, respect for rivals, and the profound connection between a driver and their machine on a demanding road. It’s about the sense of freedom on an open mountain pass, with your favorite Eurobeat track blasting and nothing but asphalt ahead. Whether you’re a devoted fan or a curious traveler seeking a unique adventure, this pilgrimage offers something truly special. So plan your trip, get that IDP, and go make some memories. The touge awaits.
